Friday, January 20, 2006

Bridge on the River Han

Siberian wasteland, freezing sub-zero winds cutting through layers to chill me to the bone. Icicles hanging off cold, bare trees. Those are my memories of Seoul in winter. Incredibly, there is no snow or ice, this visit. The days are clear, crisp and sunny. Blue sky. The temperature hovers around freezing.

Some fortunate streak of optimism must have told me to pack gloves and a second layer, and I set off for an early run. Spurred by the cold I make good time from this hulking hotel past the Department Stores and posh apartments in the Gangnam area. 5.30 am. This sleepless city still seeing it’s last revelers home. Bleary eyed, drunk executives. Well dressed call girls. A party of happy young people. Two girls clap, and run a few yards with me.

Traffic lights, normally a welcome relief, where I get a few moments rest, are now my nemesis, as I run figure of eights to stay warm. A Japanese businessman at the Co-Ex Mall traffic light watches me curiously, and raises his hand in salute.

I get to the Han. This wide river, curving it’s way through a city of skyscrapers and traffic jams, the one unhurried sight in a rushing, overworked city. It is cold on the bridge, the steady stream of cars blowing a chill wind, but it’s just too wonderful an opportunity to miss. The city spreads in all directions. Lights shimmering on the water.

Dawn breaks as I return to the warmth of my hotel. None the worse for the wear, except for a frozen right arm.

Sunday, January 15, 2006

The Toroko Gorge Run

This trip to Korea and Taiwan, I found myself with four blank days in the region. Tried to get into a Budhist Monastery to learn meditation - could not find something - settled on a nice hotel in Toroko Gorge in Taiwan.

Ran 17 miles, today. It was hilly all the way. From the hotel at Tiansiang, up the winding road to Huitouwan, and then the lovely trail to Bamboo Garden. Exhilerating views of the river, way below. The weather is just fine, this time of year, in Taiwan.

It took me a good hour and 45 minutes to do the run to Bamboo Garden, over a couple of dramatic suspension bridges, an eerie tunnel - no lights in it, and it has a couple of twists, so it is ever so dark. I had a flash light, but it still was scary. Noises echoing in the dark. The drip of water. Some parts way too steep to run.

Rich vegetation. It rains in Taiwan all year round. Friendly people, waving, shouting a cheery 'ni ha'. Riding scooters up this hill!!! There were even some hill folk riding small motor cycles on the trail.

The old bag of bones in bad shape after that very hilly run. Tired. Thrilled I could do it, though.